Walking the Camino: A Healing Journey

Several years ago, I coached a client through a few drafts of a memoir. About twenty years earlier, he and his wife, always up for travel and adventure, had tried long-distance hiking. It had been disastrous: they’d done no training, they were wearing new ill-fitting boots, and their six-year-old son was with them. They abandoned their hike about halfway through. 

Book cover of 'Walking the Camino: On Earth as It Is' by Maryanna Gabriel, featuring a path leading into the horizon with silhouettes of hikers.

A few years later, both approaching milestone birthdays, they were mulling over how to celebrate and decided to give hiking another try, this time doing lots of research and physical training, and leaving their children with family. It went so well and was so fulfilling that they made it an annual tradition. 

At first, they did a few hikes in England, a hiking-friendly country. Then they decided to tackle something bigger: El Camino de Santiago, a trail for religious pilgrims that starts in the French Pyrenees and makes its way across northern Spain and Portugal to its terminus in Galicia, on the Atlantic Coast. Around 800 kilometres long, it takes thirty to forty days to complete; they broke it into three segments, which they completed over three years.

I’ve been intrigued with the idea of hiking the Camino ever since. So, Maryanna Gabriel’s (class of 2022) book, Walking the Camino: On Earth as It Is (Pottersfield Press, 2023) immediately leapt out at me. A bit adrift after the unexpected death of her mother, Gabriel was seeking a way to deal with her grief and reconnect with her inner self. She attended a talk about walking the Camino, where a stranger with whom she exchanged a few brief words leaned in and said, “Walk the Camino. You’ll know why.” 

Her travel memoir, Walking the Camino, is exactly what the title promises: a chronicle of Gabriel’s experience, from that moment at the talk, through months of preparation, and from the beginning of the famed spiritual route in the Pyrenees Mountains to its end at the Atlantic Ocean. Just a few days into the hike, she writes about a moment when she’s resting with some fellow travellers, talking about the ineffable quality of the Camino.

I lifted my head at a pause. Something unusual was happening. I was trying to understand a rushing sensation from a great depth. I examined Bjørn intently.

“May I have your permission to pray,” he asked. His blue eyes twinkled.

It was getting late, customers had departed, and the owner had disappeared. We were alone. Kris and I glanced at each other and nodded.

Intonations of sound emerged. Rumbles that seemed ancient and long forgotten. Vowels tumbled, then halted, and gathered momentum. Bjørn tossed back his head and boomed in a crescendo of resounding benediction, a cascading river that encircled us then rolled upwards into the starlight. The sound was unlike any language I had ever heard, Latin but not Latin, Hebrew but not Hebrew, Spanish but not Spanish, but seemed to contain elements of these languages. The effect was musical and the intent benevolent. It uplifted the heart and I was filled with the wonder of it. Of babies, and cinnamon toast, dragonflies on mountain lakes, of angels blowing their horns, of kisses and custard and roses, a flower dappled in sunlight and pollen and dewdrops, the laughter of children, a first candy cane, of cookies and fire crackle, the crunch of snow, the crinkle of presents, of soft knitted socks, and the snuggle of Sunday mornings. A profound peace coursed through me, as though I had been enormously blessed. Was it from this world or beyond?

The reverberations slowly died away. Had Bjørn been speaking in tongues? I roused myself. I had to ask.

“Does this happen often?”

He mumbled and looked at me shyly from beneath shaggy brows. “Sometimes.”

Beautiful, visual, lyrical writing.

Anyone I’ve spoken to who’s done the Camino comes back with similar stories of wonder and awe and peace. The writer I spoke of earlier was at a complete loss to express his feelings as he and his wife drew close to and finally reached the end point, the finish line they’d been striving toward for three years. 

I don’t know if I’ll ever walk the Camino. It seems huge, daunting. But if the kind of experience Gabriel and my writing client describe awaits along the route or at the end, maybe, just maybe, I should do it. 

Walking the Camino: On Earth As It Is was the 2022 winner of the Pottersfield Prize for Creative Nonfiction. Other winners of this award from among the graduates of the MFA program include:

One Strong Girl: Surviving the Unimaginable—A Mother’s Memoir, by S. Leslie Buxton

The Tides of Time: A Nova Scotia Book of Seasons, by Suzanne Stewart

The Illogical Adventure: A Memoir of Love and Fate, by Andrew MacDuff and Mirriam Mweemba. Review coming soon.

Other books of inner exploration through travel:

How to Clean a Fish: and Other Adventures in Portugal, by Esmeralda Cabral

Louisburg or Bust: A Surfer’s Wild Ride Down Nova Scotia’s Drowned Coast, by RC Scott

The Heart of Homestay: Lessons from Hosting International Students

As fall and the start of the school year approach, I’m reminded of what these days meant for my family for many years: the arrival of homestay students, some new, some returning. So, when I read Jennifer Robin Wilson’s (class of 2025) book, The Heart of Homestay: Creating Meaningful Connections When Hosting International Students (Page Two; 2025), almost every page brought back memories. (Full disclosure: Some of our students may have come to us through Wilson’s business, the Canadian Homestay Network.)

Cover of the book 'The Heart of Homestay: Creating Meaningful Connections When Hosting International Students' by Jennifer Robin Wilson, featuring colorful geometric patterns.

In chapter 1, when a student stays out long past her curfew leaving her host mother in a state of panic, I remembered the time a Japanese girl fell asleep on the bus, missed her stop, and got off the bus disoriented and confused. With very little English, she approached a random house, knocked on the door, and explained her predicament. Shortly after, we got a phone call from the people in the house grilling us to make sure we were decent enough people for them to drive this sweet and innocent young traveller to our home.

Chapter 2 includes a section on homesickness, which we encountered often. What I remember most clearly is bonding with a lovely young Chinese girl over her homesickness. All of fifteen years old when she arrived, dressed like a little sk8tr girl and kicking her legs like a small child in the passenger seat of my car, she stayed with us two-and-a-half years until she went off to McGill University in Montreal. We still see her sometimes when she’s passing through Vancouver on her way to or from China. 

Wilson goes on in other chapters to talk about creating emotionally safe spaces for children, such that one Russian boy was able to come out as bisexual, which he hadn’t been able to do at home. While reader a whole chapter on food, I remembered the time our Thai “daughter” and her mother, who stayed with us for her daughter’s first nine days with us, spent a whole day cooking the most delicious meal for us. In one chapter, Wilson touches on household chores. As parents, we expected everyone in the family to do chores and never had a problem with our students—except the time a Chinese student (who’d clearly never cleaned a bathroom) used the handheld shower nozzle to spray down the WHOLE room and then tried to clean up the water with a Swiffer mop WITHOUT the absorbent mop head. 

It’s clear from the subjects Wilson covers and the anecdotes she shares that she writes from extensive personal experience. And not only as a homestay coordinator and parent: she also experienced homestay personally when her mother, who started the company, took students in, and later as a mother when her own daughter went to France as an international student.

Over and above writing from a deep well of experience, Wilson researched The Heart of Homestay broadly, citing books ranging from Amy Edmondson’s Right Kind of Wrong: The Science of Failing Well to Seth Godin’s Tribes: We Need You to Lead Us, and a dozen-ish more that this anthropology undergrad would be happy to read. Not to mention dozens of articles from peer-reviewed journals like the Journal of the Acoustical Society of America (on the ubiquity of noise in Brazilian culture, the journal of Adaptive Human Behavioral Physiology (on the human need for touch), and the Journal of Personality (on shame).

Wilson’s thorough research combines with her warm, friendly authorial tone to make her book a positive and helpful introduction to homestay—even when she’s describing the aftermath of a terrible incident when a student’s stray cigarette ignited a fire that gutted the homestay family’s home. Astonishingly, the homestay parents curbed their anger and not only allowed the boy to stay in their home, but worked hard at ensuring he wouldn’t carry guilt about it through his life. How could they do that? Because they’d formed a bond of familial love with him, Wilson says:

The family bond that Liz described came up again and again in my interviews, the host survey comments, and student testimonials. While some hosts are quick to identify this as love, others use related words like “bond,” “connection,” or “friendship,” but they share the characteristic of familial love. Psychology professor Barbara Fredrickson, who is known for her work in positive psychology, defines love as “the preoccupying and strong desire for further connection, the powerful bonds people hold with a select few and the intimacy that grows between them, the commitments to loyalty and faithfulness.”

In a nutshell, love is large. It is an emotion, but it’s also a verb. All loving actions, gestures, words, and commitments produce meaningful connections between hosts and students, but some of the most profound examples come at moments when we are most vulnerable. In the anguish of a devastating loss, or the depths of grief, or the intense pain of heartbreak, love persists. 

Over the years, my husband and me must have hosted fifty-ish students, for as little as a week and as long as three years; it’s been nearly thirty years since we hosted our first student and over a decade since our last one left, but several are still in touch with us. For us to have had Wilson’s book when we started out would no doubt have helped us a lot. Which is why I know what a boon it will be to all the new homestay parents who are setting out, as we once did, to welcome the world to their doors. 

If you’re interested in other cultures, whether by travelling yourself or getting to know people from other cultures here at home, check out my posts on these other books:

Peace by Chocolate: The Hadhad Family’s Remarkable Journey from Syria to Canada, by Jon Tattrie.

Halal Sex: The Intimate Lives of Muslim Women in North America, by Sheila Benembarek.

How to Clean a Fish: And Other Adventures in Portugal, by Esmeralda Cabral.

Winter in the City of Light: A Search for Self in Retirement, by Sue Harper.

And for something a little different:

The Worst Songs in the World: The Terrible Truth about National Anthems, by David Pate.

Journey To Portugal: A Family’s Culinary Trip Through Their Heritage

When my two older children were small, I had a dream. We would, as a family, put our belongings in storage, take two years off work and school, and travel the world. As time passed, I reduced it to a year travelling Europe. Then it was a six-month road trip around North America. 

None of that ever happened. We did, after I’d had significant windfalls, have six weeks in Cabo San Lucas when our older kids were four and six, and a month in Costa Rica when our older two were leaving home and our youngest was 12. And since my divorce, I’ve had a month in Ireland and three weeks in Scotland. I love to travel.  

So, when I heard that Esmeralda Cabral’s (class of 2019) book, How to Clean a Fish and Other Adventures in Portugal (U of Alberta Press, 2023) was all about a five-month sabbatical she and her husband took with their family to Portugal, I was intrigued. 

Cabral, a Portuguese Canadian, spent most of her childhood in the Azores, which I can only imagine as idyllic, so the opportunity to return to the land of her birth was too good not to take advantage of. And everything she writes about it makes me jealous. As one can imagine from the title, a lot of the book focuses on food, a delicious and important part of Portuguese culture. Here’s an excerpt from a tale early in the book: 

One of my favourite things to do in Costa was to browse in the market. I often went alone in the morning, while Eric [husband] and Georgia [daughter] did their work at home. I would stop and have a coffee at the counter of one of the coffee shops on the way, and sometimes I’d have a pastel [an egg custard tart] too. I’d go to the bakery to buy a loaf of bread or a few buns [mmm, Portuguese buns], and then head to the market, where I would talk to the vendors and fulfill my need for conversation. …

At a small stand right inside the north entrance, a woman sold mostly verduras, or greens. She didn’t seem to have much to sell on any given day and what she had looked a little wilted, but I usually bought something from her—lettuce, if nothing else. She would smile and greet me as I entered the market, and I found it difficult to get past her without buying anything. I would stop to talk to her, and then the woman from the next stall (who had much better-looking produce) would join in our conversation. From her, I’d buy potatoes, kale, carrots, and whatever else looked good. ….

Farther down in the fruit stall area, there was the man who sold what I deemed to be the sweetest oranges. … The crisp, peppery smell of citrus in this part of the market often permeated my nostrils and filled my head with memories of my childhood in the Azores. … I remember looking forward to Saturday morning walks to the orchard with my father because it felt like I was going to work with him. We’d come home laden with bags of oranges and lemons and sometimes bananas too, and my mother would promptly make fruit salad. …

Past the fruit stalls was a large, partly closed-off area full of tables with fish and seafood displayed on mounds of ice. Women in oil-cloth aprons called out their catch of the day and competed for customers. I didn’t go in there very often because I felt conspicuous in my ignorance … and I was intimidated by these women, all of whom were loud and looked strong and confident. … I wasn’t yet brave enough to buy fish as I had no idea how to clean or cook most of it. … One day I’ll buy fish there, I’d think to myself. 

And of course, one day, she finally did, and the woman in the market cleaned it for her and told her how to cook it. And it turned out just right. 

The whole book is a series of memories, with picturesque descriptions of the scenery and the food and the people, many of them including food images so precise that reading made me hungry, and all of it interlaced with memories of Cabral’s childhood. It’s a gently written book that left me wanting to revisit that long-ago idea of putting my life in storage and heading out to see the world again.

Maybe one day I’ll do that. 

Other books about travel:

Winter in the City of Light: Finding Yourself in Retirement, by Sue Harper.

Walking the Camino: On Earth as It Is, Maryanna Gabriel. Review coming soon.

The Illogical Adventure: A Memoir of Love and Fate, by James MacDuff and Mirriam Mweemba. Review coming soon.

Visiting Africa: A Memoir, by Jesse O’Reilly-Conlin. Review coming soon.

Here’s a book about making the world come to you:

The Heart of Homestay: Creating Meaningful Connections When Hosting International Students, by Jennifer Robin Wilson.